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                   by David Whisnant  
                  One of the most common questions new investors have is -- 
                    "Once I have a property, and once you have found and 
                    identified the subs you want to use (covered in my course), 
                    how should I go about scheduling the job?" We’ve probably 
                    all seen rehab jobs that seem to take forever. I pride myself 
                    in getting my jobs done faster than just about any other local 
                    investor I can think of. This takes no special abilities, 
                    only some solid planning before you begin work. If you take 
                    a year to get each house done, and I’ve seen some take as 
                    long as a year and a half, your profit will fly out the window 
                    in the form of payments and holding costs. The purpose of 
                    this article is to give you a structure and method for organizing 
                    your rehabs. The goal here is to do these steps in a certain 
                    order so that workers will not tear up what the workers before 
                    them accomplished. Scheduling is the key to making sure that 
                    "Worker B" does not destroy what "Worker A" 
                    did. 
                   I am assuming for this article that you are not required 
                    to permit this job. If you were required to permit, you would 
                    need a list of repairs you plan to make to the property, and 
                    the projected total cost. Take these down to your local permit 
                    office, and you will receive a permit. The price you pay for 
                    the permit is usually a flat fee plus a percentage of the 
                    value of the repairs you intend to make. If you are adding 
                    a bathroom, or addition to the house, you will need a plan. 
                    It doesn’t have to be pretty, or by an architect (at least 
                    here in Georgia), but it needs to be drawn to scale. 
                    
                   
                  To start a project, the first thing to do is get at least 
                    a 30 yard dumpster, and probably a 40 yard dumpster. Dumpster 
                    prices don’t increase much to get a bigger one, and you’ll 
                    be amazed by how much waste each job generates. Hire some 
                    day workers, or dependable labor to go in and get out all 
                    of the prior occupant’s junk. (Many of the properties we buy 
                    have couches, clothing and general junk left by the prior 
                    owners. I like to get that out first). If anything is good, 
                    you can donate it to the Salvation Army. You get a tax write 
                    off and someone else can put it to use. 
                   Street-Wise Tip: If you are in an area that has low-income 
                    residents (perhaps an area that middle class residents are 
                    moving back into), do not put bags of trash by the street. 
                    The other residents will dump them out looking for items of 
                    value, and destroy all the clean up work you have done. We’ve 
                    learned this the hard way SEVERAL times. 
                   Your cleanup will take a day or two at most. If any sheetrock 
                    is in terrible condition, where you cannot cover it with thin 
                    1/4” sheetrock on the walls, or 1/2” on the ceilings, rip 
                    it out now while you have your labor. The prime example of 
                    the wall that should be torn out (gutted) is one that has 
                    suffered heavy water damage and is bowed or not solid anymore. 
                    If the kitchen is going to be replaced, rip out the cabinets 
                    as well. Tip: See how the cabinets are attached. If they are 
                    screwed into studs, provide screwdrivers or a drill with a 
                    screw bit for your laborers to use. If the cabinets are nailed 
                    in place, provide a pry-bar. Make sure to tell them to be 
                    careful with the kitchen walls. You don’t want to tear up 
                    anything that you don’t have to tear up. 
                   If the yard is a wreck, have the guys spend an hour or so 
                    mowing, trimming overgrown hedges etc. The neighbors will 
                    be VERY thankful, will probably come over to thank you, and 
                    will be a good future source of referrals. 
                   You presumably have your general plan by this point. You 
                    may be planning on adding a bathroom, or just simply repainting 
                    and putting in new trim or doors. 
                   At the start of the job, and after the old cabinets are removed, 
                    invite your kitchen designer out to look at your kitchen. 
                    You should be down to bare walls in your kitchen at this point. 
                    I use a company to install my kitchens that does nothing but 
                    kitchens. They primarily cater to builders, and are priced 
                    40% less than you would pay at Home Depot or another superstore 
                    for cabinets. As part of their service, they send out a designer 
                    to measure and design my kitchen. I cover the brand and style 
                    of cabinets that I use in my course. Also, make sure to find 
                    out how long it will take between when you actually order 
                    your kitchen and when they install it. 
                   You will next want to have your electrical rough work and 
                    your plumbing rough work done. I’ll give the electrician (or 
                    plumber) a seven day head start, starting the plumber (or 
                    electrician) seven days later. We are only worried about large 
                    repairs here, i.e. running new wiring, replacing a fuse box 
                    with a breaker box, replacing bad plumbing/fixing leaks, installing 
                    water lines for new bathrooms. We want to do all of the rough 
                    stuff that would tear the house and walls up if we did them 
                    at the end of the process. If there is an area where both 
                    electrician and plumber will have to work together, make the 
                    first contractor finish his job in that area as the first 
                    thing they do. That way, the second contractor will not have 
                    anyone in his way if they overlap. I am not installing new 
                    sinks in bathrooms, new outlets, or anything that could be 
                    damaged by the painters/carpenters at this stage! 
                   Repairing rotten wood on the exterior of the house can be 
                    done either before or after the electrician. The electrician 
                    will probably need to turn off the power to the house, so 
                    carpenters should be scheduled before or after the electrician 
                    comes for the rough in work. (Carpenters need their power 
                    tools!) Place them under strict orders to not work inside 
                    where they’ll get in the electrician’s/plumber’s way. Replace 
                    all rotten siding at this point, check for rotted fascia board, 
                    and make repairs to porches or decks. This is also a good 
                    time to work under the house, addressing any structural repairs. 
                   Once the plumber and electrician are gone, make sure to complete 
                    all carpentry items on the exterior of the house, structural 
                    work that involves jacking up any floors, and any new framing 
                    inside that you plan on doing. (For example, we often have 
                    bedrooms in older homes that have 2 entry doors, one to a 
                    hallway and one to the kitchen. We usually close the kitchen 
                    door off to give more usable wall space, and “sell” the room 
                    as a bedroom and not a den.) 
                   The next subcontractor is the sheetrock man, who will come 
                    in to skim and repair any walls that are in poor condition. 
                    I typically schedule him for one week after the electrician 
                    and plumber told me that they would be done. He may hang some 
                    new sheetrock, or skim areas that are heavily abused. Many 
                    of the houses we rehab are in bad shape, and there usually 
                    is a good deal of work to be done on the walls. Make sure 
                    that absolutely no jacking is going on underneath the house 
                    when you reach the sheetrock stage. This jacking can crack 
                    the walls and/or ceilings that the sheetrock contractor/plasterer 
                    has already fixed. If you are going to replace all the trim 
                    and moldings in the house, these will need to be removed prior 
                    to the arrival of your sheetrock person. These trim items 
                    should be removed by your laborers at the start of the job. 
                   Remember, at this point, rough plumbing, electrical, and 
                    outside carpentry are complete. Next, focus on the inside 
                    carpentry work. This means replacing doors, putting up new 
                    moldings, etc. The goal is to get everything ready to paint. 
                    It also should be about time to order your kitchen. I usually 
                    try to get my tile work done during this period as well. This 
                    would include new tiles in any bathrooms, and tile or wood 
                    floors in your kitchen as well. I usually run new flooring 
                    wall-to-wall in kitchens, and not to the base cabinets after 
                    the new kitchen is installed. 
                   I schedule the painter for one week after the carpenter told 
                    me he would be done. If the carpentry is lagging behind, and 
                    the painter cannot change their schedule and come back a week 
                    later, I get them to start on the outside work first. This 
                    buys 3 days for us. After the exterior is completed, the inside 
                    is painted. Note that you always want to have in your agreement 
                    with the painter that he will come back for touch-up at the 
                    end of the job. I specify 16 hours of touchup. (2 guys, one 
                    day.) Hold back $200-300 until this is complete. Agree to 
                    this hold-back before the painting work starts. 
                   When the painting starts, get an estimate for the amount 
                    of time it will take to complete. Usually, accounting for 
                    weather and missed days, it takes my painters about 10 days 
                    to really complete the job, inside and out. My wood floor 
                    contractors need two weeks notice, so I usually call them 
                    when the painting starts and line them up for 2 weeks (14 
                    days) ahead. 
                   Wood floors are refinished after painting. This process usually 
                    takes 5 days, depending on how quickly the floors dry. Notes 
                    on selecting the appropriate stain, and sheen are detailed 
                    in my course along with the color that I use to conceal old 
                    stains. I now put wood floors in my kitchens, so these are 
                    done at this time. 
                   My outside landscaping is being done at about this point. 
                    I never want to do it too early, because I don’t want to have 
                    to water the plants for too long. 
                   Next is the kitchen installation. Your kitchen contractor 
                    will handle his job for you. Always make sure that you don’t 
                    have any outlets that will be covered by cabinets, or have 
                    a need for more outlets. Your electrician should have taken 
                    care of these needs at the start of the job. This is another 
                    good reason to meet with your kitchen designer early. 
                   The plumber and electrician come back again at the end of 
                    the job. The plumber mounts toilets, sinks, and connects the 
                    ice-line in the kitchen, etc. The electrician hangs light 
                    fixtures, hooks up the disposal, etc. Your carpenter may also 
                    come back for minor items like door knockers, door knobs, 
                    and other final items. 
                   Finally, the painter comes back for final touch-up. A cleaning 
                    crew comes after the painter, and the house is ready for the 
                    market. 
                   Note that I do not list or show the house until everything 
                    is done. Buyers cannot visualize what your completed product 
                    will look like, and you are far better off to wait. 
                   If you follow these steps, I am confident that you will cut 
                    a good deal of time off your rehab time, and do more homes 
                    each and every year. Your subs will also thank you for building 
                    a flexible schedule that allows extra time for the inevitable 
                    delays that happen. 
                   Congratulations if you have taken the time to read our entire 
                    series of real estate articles! If these have been helpful 
                    to you, I invite you to check out our 300 page course, which 
                    I am currently offering for the "give away" price! 
                    
                      
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